Los Angeles, 5 March 09 (twice !!!)

Our last day, 5 March, was actually quite an unusual experience as we got to live it twice... and it's not often you can say that. But you can do just that if you cross over the date line, as we did.

So on our 'first' 5 March, in NZ, we woke up at 8am, had a lovely breakfast, packed leisurely, said bye to Viv & Mischief and then headed straight to Arrow Town as we really fancied having lunch there as it is a 1o/10 location by our books. It's ever so quaint there and the little cafes are just exquisite. We had a gourmet pizza and yet another healthy salad (lots of pumpkin, yummy).

Arrow Town is just 12 mins away from the airport (we'd timed it as we'd passed it to get there) but on the way back, we took the wrong turn (due to their annoyingly consistent and distinctive lack of crucial sign posting) and ended up doing an extra 10 miles. It was a bit of a panic then as we just got to the airport hall when they said the flight was boarding but we did make it. 1h40 later, we were in Auckland and having a quick bite to eat with Robyn & Paul again (with Melanie, their little girl, as a bonus). He'd brought me over a fantastic photo book that he'd put together on their trip to France & Italy last summer and I really enjoyed his style and was seriously envious at his correct exposures in difficult lighting conditions when I fail so miserably at this technique.

We then got on our flight to L.A. at 10.45pm local time and set off pretty much bang on time. The best feature of Air NZ is that not only you have an amazing 80 movies to choose from but you also can start viewing from the moment you sit down. I don't recall any other airline being able to give you that much flexibility. And you can FF and RW and pause, etc. So if you are the first to board and the plane doesn't take off for another 30 mins, you've already watched 1/3 of a movie by the time it takes off. Great. It was really good for that. And their veggie meals were delicious and served 15 mins before anyone else's, so, by the time I'd finished my meal, other people were just getting theirs so I could beat them to the toilets to clean my teeth and jump the queues.

I managed to sleep a good 5-6 hours out of 12, courtesy of one sleeping pill, so that was pretty good. I also made time to watch 3 movies too and then we got to L.A., on 5 March again, at 1.30pm. (i.e. almost 12 hours before we took off !!! cooool).

On our 2nd 5 March we checked into La Hacienda, a very pretty (and reasonable) hotel with a Spanish feel to it, just 1 mile away from the airport (free shuttle every 15 mins) with an outdoor heated pool (but it was too windy to be in 'swimming' mood) and then headed to Hollywood by metro (a longer than expected 1h30 journey with 3 changes up to Hollywood Highlands -- they really are NOT au fait with public transport in the USA, let's face it... only 3 lines, to cover the whole of L.A., crazy if you ask me) and went to see the Walk of Fame and Chinese Theatre.

I hadn't been to L.A. for 15 years (1993, again, I did do a lot in 1993 !!!) and my camera was broken that day (recovering from a flooding experience on a Disney ride) so it was my big chance to take some photos of the place. But though that particular bit was fun, there wasn't much else to look at. L.A. is simply too spread out and I was also seriously cold too in my little short sleeved dress when it must have dropped to 12C when the sun went down. I did have a light cardigan and light raincoat on top too but I was still frozen. So we didn't hang around on the streets for too long, we just looked at the footprints & hand prints of famous people and then headed for the California Kitchen & Pizza, which was a great recommendation from Janet, who had been staying at Le Renaissance (next door) 5 years earlier when she was reporting on the Oscars. The menu choice was dazzling... and the portion sizes were scary. Needless to say we only had 'half salads' or 'starter sizes' and it was still almost too much. A soup in a 'cup' was in fact 'in a bowl', etc. Thankfully Janet had reminded me before I placed my order that a 'half portion' in CA is the equivalent of a 1.5 portion by UK standards. Half portions are incredibly good value for money though so our meal in itself was very cheap, but our cab to get back to our hotel was a painful $70 (and more with tips). Eeek. When you think it costs $50 a day to hire a car, cabs are just terrible value for money (I plain refuse to use them in the UK unless I have no other options). I came over to the USA with $180 for 2 days and I think we spent $120 of those on cab fares alone. Crazy.

We had an early night and woke up slowly at 9am as it was only 6am in our heads... we decided to head for Manhattan Beach, only 5 mins away by cab --- but still $15 to get there. It was a pretty enough beach, with very smooth golden sand and we found a restaurant for lunch that overlooked it. And then we headed for our hotels to pick up our luggage (check out time at La Hacienda is a decent noon but we had left at 10.30am for the beach) and head for the airport. Annoyingly we missed the free shuttle bus by 5 mins so it was another $10 to go just one mile for 4 minutes. Seriously insane. I definitely could not afford to travel to the USA alone since I don't / won't drive (anymore).

The flight was also bang on time, 4pm sharp we were up in the air, different movies too as it was now March (so: new selection on latest releases). In fact, as it was a day time flight I just spent 10H watching movies -- more than I'd ever do in a whole month in the UK pretty much due to lack of time / interest. I totally loved 'Changeling' though and felt it should have won 'best movie' at the recent Oscars. A truly haunting film, and a shockingly true story. I'd highly recommend it.
Coming back to the UK was very odd but necessary ! :) At least it was sunny and 12C when we landed so it helped as I needed my two hands for my 2 suitcases (one being my hand-luggage - i.e. the cameras). However, as good old London would have it, half of the tube lines were down for repair works. So instead of one change to get home, Janet had 4. It usually takes me 1H30 door-to-door, but it took me 2H30 this time... thankfully we'd landed 45mins early to make up for this but still, after a long flight, you could really do without the extra hassle, thank you very much.

I was pretty dopey the whole of Saturday and just got on with my hand-washing and other boring tasks. Nothing in the fridge to eat so opened a tuna tin and that was it. All I needed really as my stomach was on NZ time (i.e. +13H). I managed to stay awake till 8pm (which was pretty remarkable considering that when we landed at 9.50am I hadn't slept for 26 hours already) and woke up gently at 8am today (Sunday). Phew.

Now I've finished updating my blog for NZ (had no internet access in Fjiordland), I've got to sort out my paperwork to apply for my Visa for China just 5 weeks away. Having now reviewed my NZ photos, I was quite disappointed. On my PC they looked a lot bleaker than on my camera screen. Colourless almost. Not sure why, but the prints I'd taken in 1993 actually looked a lot nicer technically - superb light and exposure. Really sharp with great natural colours. And I certainly don't have time to touch up 1,700 photos so that it looks as good as I remembered... Sugar.

On this (disappointing) note, I'll love you & leave you... back in 5 weeks, God willing.

Milford Sound, the gem of NZ ? 4 March 09

We set off at 9am (after a fantastic breakfast -- huge fruit salad) and Viv had advised us to allow 2 hours to get to Milford Sound as there'd be lots to see on the way. We were lucky with the weather, it was a perfect day... and it's not often a perfect day in Fjiordland National Park I haste to add. In Te Anau they'd just had the worst summer in 20 years with '3 good days in a row in January'... and it does rain 7 meters of water per year in Milford Sound, so you just do not take sunny days for granted at all. I'd seen it on a glorious day once before (1993) and so felt really lucky to see it clearly twice in my life.

The air quality was great that day, really good definition on the mountain sides as we drove down. As in most places in NZ, the journey definitely was as beautiful as the destination. The scenery, in fact, got more and more beautiful and dramatic the further South we drove, and positively lusher too. We drove through some meadows that really had an American feel to it... rivers through the valleys, mountains in the background, countless fir trees, it could have been Colorado or Wyoming... amazing place for camping. The air smelt SO good. It felt very freeing, standing in the middle of this post-card like setting, with no one around.

We then stopped at Mirror Lakes, the best place for a 'mirror like effect' in the waters, but a few ducks spoilt the effect with their diving as it created ripples over the surface... but we'll forgive them I guess.

Our next stop was Lake Gunn. It was a gorgeous little lake, very serene, crystal clear waters (the lakes in the South are so pure that you can drink straight from them, they are 99% pure and you save on the 1% of chemical that you'd find in tap water!). There was a 30 mins loop walk around the lake that we decided to do to stretch our legs because it had lots of moss on the trees and looked like a Lost World, again.

We'd been walking for 10 minutes when I stopped to ask Janet to take my photo on a particularly nice tree (covered in such thick moss it was like sitting on a cushion, or walking on a thick carpet). I then noticed that a little robin had come down to inspect my camera bag. We walked closer to it, thinking it'd fly away, but our presence didn't phase him at all. In fact, unknown to us at the time, the NZ robin (white chest and dark grey feathers) has little fear of humans in areas where they aren't many.

Indeed, as I sat down to try and take some photos of him on the ground, he soon came to pick at my trousers (I had two strings at the bottom, so he must have thought they were worms?), then he tried to jump on my leg and later on my head. I was in awe... I hadn't seen 'fearless' birds since my Galapagos experience. But this was surreal. He was so friendly and inquisite, it was like having an 'instant pet'... so Janet nicknamed him 'Poppet' for the occasion, as all pets should have a name. We were SO taken by this precious little bird that we stayed with him a good 20 minutes. He never got tired of us, and we didn't get tired of him (we even made a few videos of him sitting 2 inches from us or less). For that experience alone, NZ went up by 5 points in my ratings ! :)) Because I SO love birds and this little robin behaved just like the blackbird I once had as a pet... (it was the same size as a black bird as well, bigger than our European robins). They are endemic to South NZ. I also grew to appreciate the diversity of NZ all over again, as the South is so different from the North (from what I've over-heard in conversations with various tourists, we all agree that the South is much more scenic so, in effect, we'd 'saved the best for last').

The next time we stopped, it was at a car park with the most amazing vista and again, within 2 minutes a kea flew down to come and check us out. They are such lovely birds too and I was impressed by the coach of Japanese tourists that pulled up minutes after we did as they did not try and feed it. There are signs everywhere that state: 'Please do not feed the keas. Help them remain wild by feeding themselves' but this would be wasted on whoever doesn't speak English.

We eventually reached Milford Sound, the icing on the cake, and it was a bit windy so Janet felt it was best to cancel our cruise in the Fjiord in case she felt really sick. We enjoyed a pleasant little walk around the vecinity instead, and some food and drinks in the cafe that overlooked Mitre Peak (THE most photographed sight there and probably the most recognised 'face' of NZ, a true icon in its own right). I took lots of photos ,needless to say -- so many textures, pebbles, rocks, moss, palm trees, ferns, etc. We stayed there a good two hours to take it all in then drove back slowly, to take some more photos on the way.

We found a few crystal clear streams with green-blue waters, though trying to get to them proved a bit difficult so I just went as far as I safely could and shot from wherever. We also went to The Chasm, a natural rock formation, carved over thousands of years by swirling waters... and back at Mirror Lakes to see if the ducks had finished messing about, but they were still diving and eating. But because they were closer to the walking boards this time we actually enjoyed watching them dive as the water was so clear, it was like standing over an aquarium.

The good thing also about standing still for 5 minutes is that another beautiful NZ robin came to say 'Hi' too. I would like to think that I attract birds like a magnet, but I'd be lying. It turned out that he was a smart little cookie who had worked out that tourists attract sandflies like magnets and that if he kept close to me, he'd get the sandflies that tried to bite me... So I sat down to make it easier for him and he had a great meal. Within seconds I was, indeed, covered in sandflies and, as my trousers were beige and they were black, it was so easy for him to spot them. He was so efficient that he caught 12 in just 10 minutes and I even managed to squash a few for him to make it an extra easy meal. At least I felt it was 'good healthy food' for him and better than crumbs. Once he was full, he just flew off.

We got back to Te Anau on time for dinner, tried another eating place and ended up sitting outside a quaint pub that happened to have live music that night (2 old guys with their guitars). And, as you may have noticed: you know you're getting older when you can't stand loud music (!), so sitting outside was pleasant, but inside would have been too much for our ears I think.

Glenorchy, NZ, 3 March 09

Glenorchy was as glorious as ever on my 2nd visit there. It was wonderful to have a few hours to really enjoy the atmosphere and the views (we were only allowed 20 mins yesterday). Janet decided that it was her 4th favourite place in the world. We took a short walk along the lagoon and it was just spectacular - she totally loved the fact that you could find the sea and the snow capped mountains so close to each other. I also introduced her to my fav. tea garden and she fell in love with it too (her '2nd fav cafe in the world' !). The many little sparrows were an extra bonus. They'd just sit there, up to 4 in a row, on a chair back and wait for crumbs. I really have a thing for birds, I adore them.

Glenorchy was top of the list for Janet, as far as NZ is concerned - mainly due to the stunning views. It really was picture-perfect, we were so lucky with the weather as the sun brought out all the different shades of blue in the lagoon. We just 'pootled around' for a good 4 hours and ate more home made ice creams... I think we took over 100 photos within 50 yards :)

The food in NZ is quite a delight too, it has to be said. We've had some fantastic salads (I have salads every day when in the UK, as I really enjoy fruits & vegs) and they quite happily mix both here, so one day I'd have a 'pear, beetroot, walnut & lettuce', the next I'd have the 'Hippy Salad', i.e. 'mandarin, lychee, grated carrots, warm new potatoes and miso dressing' -- yummmmmy. They don't cater much for vegetarians though. In some places, if I didn't eat fish, I'd have had no option at all.

As we sat in this beautiful tea garden Janet told me a tale she'd heard yesterday on her tour about two Maori boys who had gone walking with their dog (an expensive trained dog). As they crossed a stream the dog got washed away in strong current. They couldn't afford to lose him so went looking for him, and found him further down stream, desperately trying to get on the bank... Fate had it that the dog had picked the best spot possible as, as he stratched the earth with its paws gold nuggets came up to the surface. In one afternoon the two boys had found NZ$200,000 worth of gold ! i.e. US$ 100,459 equivalent as of today's exchange rate. NOT bad for an afternoon stroll... nobody can remember the breed of the dog but the joke is that it's a 'golden retreiver' :) When Janet went gold-panning yesterday, all she found was equivalent of a speck of gold ('like a dandruff'). Not enough for a cup of tea even... she was told.

We drove back to Queenstown (again, amazing journey as it follows the lake all the way round) and went via the Shot Over River to find the spot where the shot-over jets do their 360 degree spins. Janet wanted to get a video of that for her records as they did 6 in her 20 mins ride.

We managed to get a bit more sun-tanned too... about time, though we are not tanning very fast as we are very good at applying and re-applying SF50 every chance we get, even on our arms in the car. There is a hole in the ozone layer here so it's best to take no chances (you know the slogan: 'who wants a tan to die for?').

We saw a few sandflies, but, to be fair, I can't understand what the big fear / fuss is all about. I didn't find their bites more painful than a mosquitoe bite, nor more itchy.

We then eventually drove all the way to Te Anau (2 hours non-stop). The reason we didn't stop was because there wasn't much to stop for. Though we followed another lake it didn't seem as scenic. The hills there were just too barren for my liking - Janet said it reminded her of Greece (it's truly like there is a bit of the whole world in NZ !). I'm sure the scenery would have looked better with some snow around. There, it was dramatic, but not particularly scenic.

We got to our b&b (Loch Vista) by 7pm. It was perched on top of a hill overlooking the lake and we really loved it there. Our host, Viv, was lovely and she had a lovely grey cat called Mischief. It surely felt good to cuddle a pet again...

We also kept seeing deer farms around NZ and she was telling us that before the deer farms were set up people used to go and shoot them from an helicopter but it was so dangerous that many young men lost their lives (including her husband - who died aged 32 leaving her and their 2 young sons behind) so in the end, they felt it was better to capture them live and get them to breed. I still felt so sad for the deers...

We headed for Te Anau (5kms away) for dinner and then had an early night... sleeping like logs. All this fresh air was wonderful...

The Dart River Wilderness Safari, NZ, 2 March 09

This morning Janet & I were unsure what to do. We called a few activity places around and couldn't seem to agree on a specific excursion. I really fancied the 'Dart river safari' as it had a mix of everything: jet boating, hiking and 4WD across lovely valleys. But when we called they said that the jet boating would be 1h30 and Janet felt it'd be too long as she's not happy on boats. She was interested in the Skippers Canyon 4WD tour that talked about the mining industry and it really wasn't my thing... and I'd done the Skippers Canyon in 1993. So, we agreed to split for the afternoon. It was actually impeccable timing because our tours started and ended at the same time so we could just meet up in time back in their office.

My safari was $199 which felt like a lot but I actually felt it'd been worth every dollars. I enjoyed every minute, and it's not often I can say that. The jet boating was very pleasant, the scenery was great... I had some problem breathing as it was going too fast, but I found that if I placed my hand over my nose, it'd make it easier! They did do a few 360 degree spins, which had made me seriously sick last time, but this time I was prepared for it so I'd had no breakfast and it helped. I'd also eaten a banana 30mins earlier (as potassium is known to settle the stomach) and it worked a treat. Phew. It was hard to take photos but we stopped a few times so that was ok then. I even did a few videos, for the record. Jet boating was invented in NZ, again, as their rivers were so shallow that they had to invent something that would almost glide over the water with propellors.

When we got off, we hiked for about 30mins along a beautiful little trek by the lake. Totally scenic. 10/10 for 'prettiness', again. Pictures will speak louder than words.

We then got onto a 4WD bus to go around the valley and it was oustanding scenery, again. In fact, it's so scenic that it has been used many times as a movie set location. Film companies from all over the world come to film here, the best loved movies of all being the Lord of The Rings triology (they have LOTR tours here that take you to specific film locations, etc). The LOTR cult following is exploited full on here... but having never seen the movie, I have no idea what the fuss is about, I must say.

Our driver was most interesting... and if I hadn't been so busy taking so many photos (as every corner *was* a photo) I'd have been busy writing pages on my note-pad. I just cannot remember everything he said, but what stood out is the story of the possums. They are protected in Australia but are classified as a pest here and NZ is desperate to get rid of them.

NZ had no mammals before the white men came along and ruined everything. Possums were introduced for fur and meat but they didn't realise that they'd reproduce like crazy, having no natural predators here, and as they each eat 400grs of forest a day, with an estimated 70 million possums at large in NZ forests, you can picture the scale of the ecologial disaster. They cannot poison them because it'd threaten the whole foodchain... i.e. a dead possum will be eaten by something else and then something else, etc. Too risky. They are trying to trap them but it's a long process. NZ used to be the main exporter of possum fur (which is so warm that it is as effective as bear fur. The actual hair is hollow inside creating an insulation system that is so powerful that if you put a patch a fur in a freezer, it will not freeze). NZ used to export 60 million possum pouches a year in fact, but when Sophia Loren started her 'wear no fur' campaign, backed up by many celebrities in the late 70's or early 80's, the appeal of fur hit rock bottom and NZ was unable to export any anymore. They are now selling possum pies and other smaller items made of possum fur: gloves, scarves, jumpers. It's supposed to be very light and yet very effective - great for a suitcase. But I find possums too cute to wear anything real, sorry. And yet our guide was adamant that the best way to help NZ was to buy possum meat or products...

He also explained that stoads were introduced to get rid of the rabbits that had been previously introduced by men and had too turned into a pest when their numbers got out of control. The stoads, however, outsmarted the government and soon realised that it was easier to eat defenceless, flightless birds, than exert themselves chasing after rabbits... and so they endeavoured to devour most of the birds and exterminated 10 of NZ's native bird species... sooo sad.

One big bird that was hunted to death by the Maori people was the Moa. It stood to be about 3-4 meters high and could provide enough meat for a family for a month. Some books say the bird became extinct 400 years ago but my guide today said it was just 180 years ago. There are statues of the Mao bird in every city, maybe as a way to say 'oops, sorry'... they looked like emus or cassawaries... such a shame.

Seals are quite smart too. When we were in Abel Tasman, our host there had mentioned that they had figured out how to get into the prawn / fish farm nearby and eat quite a few daily. The guy who owned the farm managed to capture a dozen seals, drove them 300kms away to release them somewhere where they'd find lots of fish, but they were back within 2 days ! Probably easier to fish for trapped fish than to chase it around the sea... I'm not sure what he did next... whether he gave up or shot them.

The whole day was diverse and interesting and beautiful, 3 key ingredients in Sylvie's book ! The scenery was very varied too, from dry plains to lush forests (with moss !) and always with water nearby to add a touch of blue vs the green or yellow (of the grass - in some places). I was particularly lucky during the 4WD section as I got to sit right next to the driver so had the best view... and because of the anti glare on the windscreen I could take great shots with no reflection (not always easy to cut out, even with a polarizer fitted on my camera lens).

We also passed a secluded area with a few discreet chalets at the bottom, known to be a 'rich and famous' type of retreat to escape from the buzz of Hollywood... $4,000 a night, but total privacy. The 200 people who live in Glenorchy (the nearest 'big' village -- 'big' being 'minute' by London standards of course) have all been used as extras in the various films that have been shot in the vecinity so like to boast that this is the only town with '200 unknown celebs'.

In fact, the first British settlers to come to Glenorchy were Welsh and named Williams (and Janet's surname is Williams and she's Welsh... so it does show it's a small world !).

We only stayed 20 mins in Glenorchy but I really liked it. Gorgeous coffee shops with gardens at the back overlooking glorious mountain scenery. VERY neat. In fact, Janet & I are going back tomorrow for one last look at the place. She went somewhere totally different (and had a great day too) but really wanted to see Glenorchy - and I don't mind going back as they sell some fantastic home made boysenberry and cream ice-cream, yummy. I just hope the good weather continues. We have been 'traumatised' by rain and I don't take ONE hour of sunshine for granted here. I'm always worried it will stop any minute... (it can be like the UK here with 4 seasons in one hour !!).

We drove back to Queenstown at the 'gold light' hour and the drive back seemed even more beautiful then, more definition on the mountains. A truly exquisite little spot. Voila, I'd better sign off, Janet is browsing the shops but is due to pick me up in 5 minutes... then we'll have dinner and will review our various photos to delete the pix we don't want to keep anymore...

Franz to Queenstown - 1st March 09

We set off from Franz Josef in the pouring rain, and when I mean pouring, I mean with the screen wipers full-on. We were hoping to nip back to Lake Matheson if it had been great, but no need, obviously... Our hostm, before we set off, had warned us of sandflies, saying that they will 'eat you alive' when you get out of the car so you need to shut the door pretty quick when you step out of the car otherwise they get in and drive you nuts whilst you're driving. In fact, he even said that the reason why it took so long for the white men to conquer NZ was because of the sandflies... they'd settle for a few months and then leave as they just couldn't take the itching any more. NOT hugely promising... we just covered ourselves in DEET basically and hoped for the best.

Our first stop was at Ship Creek, it had a lovely swamp walk (slight drizzle still) and it was just my type of scenery -- massively lush with moss over every tree. Trees look quite strange around there, a bit eerie in fact, as if they had a soul... they also have some trees that are covered in grass-like plants and I call them the 'yeti' trees as they look like the abominable snow man ! :)

We then eventually got to Mont Aspiring National Park and it was quite spectacular, again. Lots of peaks and valleys and the road following the rivers and lakes, with mist rising from the trees as it was still quite drizzly... it was frustrating not to see it in its full glory, but the mist did add a certain charm to it, making the whole scenery much more atmospheric somehow. There seemed to be countless shades of greens and greys. The roads, as usual here, were deserted. I even think I could drive pretty confidently here: no traffic lights, no round-abouts, and only the odd camper van to overtake (most are kind and will put over in the many designated areas for a few seconds to give you a chance to overtake them but if you get stuck behind someone selfish, you can be stuck for a long time as the roads are quite twisty making it difficult to overtake safely). Following a camper van is just enough to slow you down from 100km/hr to 80km/hr and add an extra 45mins to your journey.

We followed the Haast River all the way and went through 3 types of beautiful landscapes: temperate rainforest, beech forest and high country grassland.

We stopped in Mokuera (?) for a quite bite to eat... another halmet with just 10 houses, I joked that 'it was great for an hour but I couldn't see myself spending 10 years here' and the girl behind the counter said 'believe it or not, we have a member of staff who has lived here 10 years, it's probably why drinking is his favourite hobby'... :)

We then got to Lake Hawea (next to Lake Wanaka), one of the prettiest lake drives I'd ever done. By then the weather had improved quite a bit I haste to add (our host, who was always 'spot on' with his predictions, it has to be said) had hoped it'd happen as the Haast Pass (high up in the mountain range) can act like a weather barrier he said and stop the rain. And it made such a difference to the colours in the water to have some sun above our heads. I took some of my best shots of NZ so far along this stretch.

We also decided to stop at Arrow Town before getting into Queenstown (19kms away). It had been highly recommended by my friends and by every guide book for the South Island. It is the best preserved mining town in NZ and is also very very quaint. Janet & I spent a beautiful evening there, browsing through the gorgeous little shops and soaking up the atmosphere. It's only a one street halmet (yet again) but it did look like you'd stepped back in time, to 1862 precisely when the first miners arrived. They also had a whole section that had been used by the first Chinese migrants and made very sad reading... how only 1 in 8 managed to go back and how they lived in these terrible sheds with no light at all. We enjoyed a full hour there, it was the 'golden hour', it was warm and so pleasant... happy bunnies we were.

We then got to Queenstown and checked into the Gold Ridge Hotel, and we have a room overlooking the lake, with a nice little balcony (handy to let our clothes drip dry !) but not quite central enough. We are 5kms away from all the shops so still need the car to go out and eat.

When we went out for a stroll in Queenstown early evening I realised why I loved it so much here. It definitely is my favourite NZ city; it is called 'Queenstown' because the earlier English settlers felt the location was 'fit for a queen' (their Queen being Victoria at the time). There are a lot of pedestrian streets here and lots of places where you can sit outside to have a drink or meal, most on a 'wooden' theme, making it look extra cosy. I think that if I had to live in NZ for 6 months, Queenstown would be my choice. I really like the atmosphere here.

Queenstown is 'the adventure capital of the world' and has a usual resident population of 10,422; however, this number can swell up to 45,000 in peak visitor periods. Most people come here to experience extreme sports. I guess that bungy-jumping was invented in NZ and now they are into body surfing in rivers (instead of white water rafting, you do it on a board so that you are *in* the water), I've also seen videos of people jumping off planes on their bikes ! (both attached to a rope I may add). They have 'canyon jumping', etc. It's a place to try mad, mad, mad things, if you have the guts for it... needless to say, none of this 'mad' stuff was on our cards !

It does rain an awful lot in the summer though, so, strangely, it seems that their winter is the best time to visit NZ (much cheaper accommodation, no need to pre-book everything in advance, and less rain !). But fewer daylight hours I guess...

After an Indian meal Janet & I went off to bed and I had to take a sleeping pill to try and sleep straight through. I haven't been able to get much sleep in the last few nights... not sure why, I guess it's because I'm on a high being visually stimulated all day long ! :) That's GOOD though. I'd rather that than be bored....