The Dart River Wilderness Safari, NZ, 2 March 09
This morning Janet & I were unsure what to do. We called a few activity places around and couldn't seem to agree on a specific excursion. I really fancied the 'Dart river safari' as it had a mix of everything: jet boating, hiking and 4WD across lovely valleys. But when we called they said that the jet boating would be 1h30 and Janet felt it'd be too long as she's not happy on boats. She was interested in the Skippers Canyon 4WD tour that talked about the mining industry and it really wasn't my thing... and I'd done the Skippers Canyon in 1993. So, we agreed to split for the afternoon. It was actually impeccable timing because our tours started and ended at the same time so we could just meet up in time back in their office.
My safari was $199 which felt like a lot but I actually felt it'd been worth every dollars. I enjoyed every minute, and it's not often I can say that. The jet boating was very pleasant, the scenery was great... I had some problem breathing as it was going too fast, but I found that if I placed my hand over my nose, it'd make it easier! They did do a few 360 degree spins, which had made me seriously sick last time, but this time I was prepared for it so I'd had no breakfast and it helped. I'd also eaten a banana 30mins earlier (as potassium is known to settle the stomach) and it worked a treat. Phew. It was hard to take photos but we stopped a few times so that was ok then. I even did a few videos, for the record. Jet boating was invented in NZ, again, as their rivers were so shallow that they had to invent something that would almost glide over the water with propellors.
When we got off, we hiked for about 30mins along a beautiful little trek by the lake. Totally scenic. 10/10 for 'prettiness', again. Pictures will speak louder than words.
We then got onto a 4WD bus to go around the valley and it was oustanding scenery, again. In fact, it's so scenic that it has been used many times as a movie set location. Film companies from all over the world come to film here, the best loved movies of all being the Lord of The Rings triology (they have LOTR tours here that take you to specific film locations, etc). The LOTR cult following is exploited full on here... but having never seen the movie, I have no idea what the fuss is about, I must say.
Our driver was most interesting... and if I hadn't been so busy taking so many photos (as every corner *was* a photo) I'd have been busy writing pages on my note-pad. I just cannot remember everything he said, but what stood out is the story of the possums. They are protected in Australia but are classified as a pest here and NZ is desperate to get rid of them.
NZ had no mammals before the white men came along and ruined everything. Possums were introduced for fur and meat but they didn't realise that they'd reproduce like crazy, having no natural predators here, and as they each eat 400grs of forest a day, with an estimated 70 million possums at large in NZ forests, you can picture the scale of the ecologial disaster. They cannot poison them because it'd threaten the whole foodchain... i.e. a dead possum will be eaten by something else and then something else, etc. Too risky. They are trying to trap them but it's a long process. NZ used to be the main exporter of possum fur (which is so warm that it is as effective as bear fur. The actual hair is hollow inside creating an insulation system that is so powerful that if you put a patch a fur in a freezer, it will not freeze). NZ used to export 60 million possum pouches a year in fact, but when Sophia Loren started her 'wear no fur' campaign, backed up by many celebrities in the late 70's or early 80's, the appeal of fur hit rock bottom and NZ was unable to export any anymore. They are now selling possum pies and other smaller items made of possum fur: gloves, scarves, jumpers. It's supposed to be very light and yet very effective - great for a suitcase. But I find possums too cute to wear anything real, sorry. And yet our guide was adamant that the best way to help NZ was to buy possum meat or products...
He also explained that stoads were introduced to get rid of the rabbits that had been previously introduced by men and had too turned into a pest when their numbers got out of control. The stoads, however, outsmarted the government and soon realised that it was easier to eat defenceless, flightless birds, than exert themselves chasing after rabbits... and so they endeavoured to devour most of the birds and exterminated 10 of NZ's native bird species... sooo sad.
One big bird that was hunted to death by the Maori people was the Moa. It stood to be about 3-4 meters high and could provide enough meat for a family for a month. Some books say the bird became extinct 400 years ago but my guide today said it was just 180 years ago. There are statues of the Mao bird in every city, maybe as a way to say 'oops, sorry'... they looked like emus or cassawaries... such a shame.
Seals are quite smart too. When we were in Abel Tasman, our host there had mentioned that they had figured out how to get into the prawn / fish farm nearby and eat quite a few daily. The guy who owned the farm managed to capture a dozen seals, drove them 300kms away to release them somewhere where they'd find lots of fish, but they were back within 2 days ! Probably easier to fish for trapped fish than to chase it around the sea... I'm not sure what he did next... whether he gave up or shot them.
The whole day was diverse and interesting and beautiful, 3 key ingredients in Sylvie's book ! The scenery was very varied too, from dry plains to lush forests (with moss !) and always with water nearby to add a touch of blue vs the green or yellow (of the grass - in some places). I was particularly lucky during the 4WD section as I got to sit right next to the driver so had the best view... and because of the anti glare on the windscreen I could take great shots with no reflection (not always easy to cut out, even with a polarizer fitted on my camera lens).
We also passed a secluded area with a few discreet chalets at the bottom, known to be a 'rich and famous' type of retreat to escape from the buzz of Hollywood... $4,000 a night, but total privacy. The 200 people who live in Glenorchy (the nearest 'big' village -- 'big' being 'minute' by London standards of course) have all been used as extras in the various films that have been shot in the vecinity so like to boast that this is the only town with '200 unknown celebs'.
In fact, the first British settlers to come to Glenorchy were Welsh and named Williams (and Janet's surname is Williams and she's Welsh... so it does show it's a small world !).
We only stayed 20 mins in Glenorchy but I really liked it. Gorgeous coffee shops with gardens at the back overlooking glorious mountain scenery. VERY neat. In fact, Janet & I are going back tomorrow for one last look at the place. She went somewhere totally different (and had a great day too) but really wanted to see Glenorchy - and I don't mind going back as they sell some fantastic home made boysenberry and cream ice-cream, yummy. I just hope the good weather continues. We have been 'traumatised' by rain and I don't take ONE hour of sunshine for granted here. I'm always worried it will stop any minute... (it can be like the UK here with 4 seasons in one hour !!).
We drove back to Queenstown at the 'gold light' hour and the drive back seemed even more beautiful then, more definition on the mountains. A truly exquisite little spot. Voila, I'd better sign off, Janet is browsing the shops but is due to pick me up in 5 minutes... then we'll have dinner and will review our various photos to delete the pix we don't want to keep anymore...
This morning Janet & I were unsure what to do. We called a few activity places around and couldn't seem to agree on a specific excursion. I really fancied the 'Dart river safari' as it had a mix of everything: jet boating, hiking and 4WD across lovely valleys. But when we called they said that the jet boating would be 1h30 and Janet felt it'd be too long as she's not happy on boats. She was interested in the Skippers Canyon 4WD tour that talked about the mining industry and it really wasn't my thing... and I'd done the Skippers Canyon in 1993. So, we agreed to split for the afternoon. It was actually impeccable timing because our tours started and ended at the same time so we could just meet up in time back in their office.
My safari was $199 which felt like a lot but I actually felt it'd been worth every dollars. I enjoyed every minute, and it's not often I can say that. The jet boating was very pleasant, the scenery was great... I had some problem breathing as it was going too fast, but I found that if I placed my hand over my nose, it'd make it easier! They did do a few 360 degree spins, which had made me seriously sick last time, but this time I was prepared for it so I'd had no breakfast and it helped. I'd also eaten a banana 30mins earlier (as potassium is known to settle the stomach) and it worked a treat. Phew. It was hard to take photos but we stopped a few times so that was ok then. I even did a few videos, for the record. Jet boating was invented in NZ, again, as their rivers were so shallow that they had to invent something that would almost glide over the water with propellors.
When we got off, we hiked for about 30mins along a beautiful little trek by the lake. Totally scenic. 10/10 for 'prettiness', again. Pictures will speak louder than words.
We then got onto a 4WD bus to go around the valley and it was oustanding scenery, again. In fact, it's so scenic that it has been used many times as a movie set location. Film companies from all over the world come to film here, the best loved movies of all being the Lord of The Rings triology (they have LOTR tours here that take you to specific film locations, etc). The LOTR cult following is exploited full on here... but having never seen the movie, I have no idea what the fuss is about, I must say.
Our driver was most interesting... and if I hadn't been so busy taking so many photos (as every corner *was* a photo) I'd have been busy writing pages on my note-pad. I just cannot remember everything he said, but what stood out is the story of the possums. They are protected in Australia but are classified as a pest here and NZ is desperate to get rid of them.
NZ had no mammals before the white men came along and ruined everything. Possums were introduced for fur and meat but they didn't realise that they'd reproduce like crazy, having no natural predators here, and as they each eat 400grs of forest a day, with an estimated 70 million possums at large in NZ forests, you can picture the scale of the ecologial disaster. They cannot poison them because it'd threaten the whole foodchain... i.e. a dead possum will be eaten by something else and then something else, etc. Too risky. They are trying to trap them but it's a long process. NZ used to be the main exporter of possum fur (which is so warm that it is as effective as bear fur. The actual hair is hollow inside creating an insulation system that is so powerful that if you put a patch a fur in a freezer, it will not freeze). NZ used to export 60 million possum pouches a year in fact, but when Sophia Loren started her 'wear no fur' campaign, backed up by many celebrities in the late 70's or early 80's, the appeal of fur hit rock bottom and NZ was unable to export any anymore. They are now selling possum pies and other smaller items made of possum fur: gloves, scarves, jumpers. It's supposed to be very light and yet very effective - great for a suitcase. But I find possums too cute to wear anything real, sorry. And yet our guide was adamant that the best way to help NZ was to buy possum meat or products...
He also explained that stoads were introduced to get rid of the rabbits that had been previously introduced by men and had too turned into a pest when their numbers got out of control. The stoads, however, outsmarted the government and soon realised that it was easier to eat defenceless, flightless birds, than exert themselves chasing after rabbits... and so they endeavoured to devour most of the birds and exterminated 10 of NZ's native bird species... sooo sad.
One big bird that was hunted to death by the Maori people was the Moa. It stood to be about 3-4 meters high and could provide enough meat for a family for a month. Some books say the bird became extinct 400 years ago but my guide today said it was just 180 years ago. There are statues of the Mao bird in every city, maybe as a way to say 'oops, sorry'... they looked like emus or cassawaries... such a shame.
Seals are quite smart too. When we were in Abel Tasman, our host there had mentioned that they had figured out how to get into the prawn / fish farm nearby and eat quite a few daily. The guy who owned the farm managed to capture a dozen seals, drove them 300kms away to release them somewhere where they'd find lots of fish, but they were back within 2 days ! Probably easier to fish for trapped fish than to chase it around the sea... I'm not sure what he did next... whether he gave up or shot them.
The whole day was diverse and interesting and beautiful, 3 key ingredients in Sylvie's book ! The scenery was very varied too, from dry plains to lush forests (with moss !) and always with water nearby to add a touch of blue vs the green or yellow (of the grass - in some places). I was particularly lucky during the 4WD section as I got to sit right next to the driver so had the best view... and because of the anti glare on the windscreen I could take great shots with no reflection (not always easy to cut out, even with a polarizer fitted on my camera lens).
We also passed a secluded area with a few discreet chalets at the bottom, known to be a 'rich and famous' type of retreat to escape from the buzz of Hollywood... $4,000 a night, but total privacy. The 200 people who live in Glenorchy (the nearest 'big' village -- 'big' being 'minute' by London standards of course) have all been used as extras in the various films that have been shot in the vecinity so like to boast that this is the only town with '200 unknown celebs'.
In fact, the first British settlers to come to Glenorchy were Welsh and named Williams (and Janet's surname is Williams and she's Welsh... so it does show it's a small world !).
We only stayed 20 mins in Glenorchy but I really liked it. Gorgeous coffee shops with gardens at the back overlooking glorious mountain scenery. VERY neat. In fact, Janet & I are going back tomorrow for one last look at the place. She went somewhere totally different (and had a great day too) but really wanted to see Glenorchy - and I don't mind going back as they sell some fantastic home made boysenberry and cream ice-cream, yummy. I just hope the good weather continues. We have been 'traumatised' by rain and I don't take ONE hour of sunshine for granted here. I'm always worried it will stop any minute... (it can be like the UK here with 4 seasons in one hour !!).
We drove back to Queenstown at the 'gold light' hour and the drive back seemed even more beautiful then, more definition on the mountains. A truly exquisite little spot. Voila, I'd better sign off, Janet is browsing the shops but is due to pick me up in 5 minutes... then we'll have dinner and will review our various photos to delete the pix we don't want to keep anymore...
posted by Sylvie at 5:25 AM
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