Last update from Borneo (7 July 07)

One last post from beautiful Borneo since we got back earlier than we expected from our snorkelling trip and island hopping this morning. The weather became quite windy around lunch-time (so much for the 'Land Below the Wind' theory!) and it was like a mini sand storm. The sea became really rough and the visibility became nil.

I was oh SO disappointed because it meant we wouldn't be able to do the jet-skiing. But it wouldn't have been safe... But it does reinforce the point that 'one should not put off till tomorrow what one can do today'. SIGH.

We enjoyed one good hour on Mamutik and some of the corals were nice (but no way near as amazing as off Sapi though) but what spoilt it for me was to find a family of Malaysian/Chinese or Korean (I feel terrible that I can't differentiate between all of these ethnic groups... but with a snorkelling mask on, it's even more difficult than usual!) just standing on the corals. The kids had obviously ran out of steam so they were hanging onto the rope they use to divide the snorkelling and diving areas and they were kicking their legs to stay upwards and snapping quite a few beautiful coral branches in the process. I was HORRIFIED. Then the father instead of telling them off just stood *right* on these delicate branches too, without a care in the world. I was so shocked that I had to speak up for the corals! I told him 'You must NOT stand on the corals, you will kill them... do you understand???' and he nodded and said 'oh yes, beautiful, beautiful'... (with a heavy foreign accent). I despaired. I didn't know who to report this to, or whether anyone here would even CARE. I don't know if coral branches ever grow back again once they've been snapped in two... Nature can be very resourceful sometimes... but Roberto didn't seem to think so. He'd gone snorkelling earlier and had found the same family and had also told them off, in vain, obviously. We were both absolutely fuming.

This pretty much ruined the mood for me. It's as if someone was to tread over a Van Gogh... people would be outraged... and yet corals deserve FAR more respect if you ask me because they have been a masterpiece in the making for thousands & thousands of years... they were getting ready for our visual pleasure long before we were even thought of. Shouldn't that inspire AWE?

Our next stop was Manukan, which had really nice facilities and looked more upmarket (Mamunik was tiny and didn't have many palm trees) with beautiful wooden chalets... but I didn't even go into the water. Roberto went in first (I asked him to go and explore and report in due course as to where I could find the best corals - he swims 5 times faster than I do so he could cover a lot more ground !). But the wind was too bad and spoiled the mood too.

Maybe Borneo was being kind in disguise... it won't be quite as painful to leave as it would have been had it been totally glorious again - as it was when we set off.

Yesterday Roberto told me he had spotted a sea snake (black and white, striped), he was a bit startled and made a point to stay away as they can be quite poisonous. I would have completely freaked out if it'd been me. I don't like snakes at the best of time, but underwater they move so much faster and you feel even more powerless. I wish I could go free diving the way he does, he makes it look SO easy... when it's anything but for me.

I'm sure I'm forgetting to say lots but unfortunately, we have our airport transfer in about 30 minutes and it'll be back to reality from then on. I can barely remember what my studio flat looks like... it feels like forever since I was on the underground on the way to LHR... but it'll be nice to catch up with my friends / family face to face or on the phone...

As usual, I'd like to encourage you all to come over and discover Malaysia for yourself. Borneo is actually split between 3 countries... Sabah and Sarawak belong to Malaysia, the larger 'state' Kalimantan, belong to Indonesia, and the smallest bit, is Brunei, a whole country in its own rights.

The only things I didn't like too much here is that (a) it's flipping difficult to get sparkling water in the more remote lodges... they just don't have the concept, surprisingly... (b) equally difficult is to get a hot chocolate in the morning... if you don't like tea or coffee, you've run out of hot drink options :( and (c) the post cards are absolutely dire. I never found ONE I liked... and yet I'd come over all prepared, with 50 labels pre-printed to save time as I thought I'd be sending heaps.... hum. Mind you, considering how hectic things have been, I'm not sure WHEN I'd have found the time to write anything to anyone ... but then I guess my itineraries are always pretty mad and I usually manage.

But, let's not end on a negative note... let's remember all the treasures that Borneo has to offer... too many to mention. We really loved every single day and will cherish the memories for a long time. Today was probably the only 'let down' we've had... which is great timing ! :)

I guess the next trip will be Belize, all being well... probably around mid-November. Same mix of rainforests and reefs.... can't go wrong with that! Just different fish and different birds... but more chances to admire / observe the amazing, dazzling diversity that our planet has to offer. I told Roberto last night 'do you realise that 99% of people who live on earth will never come here? aren't we just incredibly blessed?'...

Make sure you're part of the 1% who do ! :))) I can guarantee you will NOT regret it...