Tunku Abdul Rahman Park - simply fab! 6 July 07
Well, I feel I've spent the last 2 weeks using superlatives to describe Borneo, but this place has truly exceeded our expectations every step of the way. Every single day has been just awesome and today was no exception.
We had a leisurely breakfast where I ate far more than I needed simply because the choice of pastries was too tempting to resist... but made up for it by having only papaya for lunch (not that I was strong willed but the BBQ lunch on the beach had next to nothing for vegetarians - thank God!).
Anyway, at 10am we left from our hotel's own jetty (I tell you, this hotel has got it ALL) and within 8 minutes in a speedboat we had reached Sapi Island (one of the 5 islands that make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman (Marine) Park. In case you wonder what it means, as I did, the park is named after their first prime minister who brought independence from the British. Now, the brochures say that "the locals go there to enjoy snorkelling in crystal clear waters" but I'll admit I was dubious about that... I mean, Kota Kinabalu is the capital city and well, if I compare this to... say, London, there is NO way I would have "crystal clear waters" just 8 minutes away from the Thames... let alone with tropical fish! (assuming any at all survive the pollution?).
But the brochures were NOT kidding... the water colour was crystal clear and a lovely deep green. The islands had tiny white sandy beaches and were packed with trees - so dense, like a mini rainforest. Sapi was a bit crowded and from the boat I could spot quite a few children splashing around the water and so I immediately pictured a coral reef that was full of dead corals - skeletons, bones, bleak reminders of a more glorious past... but again, I couldn't have been more wrong. The coral reef off Sapi was PRISTINE. It was wide enough to entertain any avid snorkeller for at least 30mns without covering the same grounds and offered an incredible variety of hard and soft corals... it was just as spectacular as some of the coral gardens we'd enjoyed in Sipadan. I was gob-smacked. I just never expected this kind of coral quality in a National Park that was founded in 1974. Probably one of the finest in the world. The beauty of this place has been promoted for 30+ years and yet it still looked immaculate. Compare this to the poor sights of Eilat (Israel) or Mombasa (Kenya) where there is pretty much nothing decent left unless you hop on a boat for 40mns off the coast and what a startling contrast. And the water temperature was just like bath water... so beautifully warm, you could snorkel for ages then. Perfect !
They have kind of 'marked up' the snorkelling and diving areas and divided them with ropes and green and black floaters. If you stay within the green floaters area, you are in the snorkelling area, if you go between green & black, you are in the slightly deeper waters and supposedly in the diving section. You are not allowed to swim past the black floaters as this is the 'highway' for speedboats and if they don't spot you on time, you could end up like minced meat under their propellers. Roberto, being not one to be told what to do actually gambled it and tried to swim beyond the 'line' as the reef was better & better the further into the sea you went, but he soon got whistled at by a patrolling boat. I told him that it was to save him from himself... but he felt he was too restricted and like in a prison. The next island (Gaya) was just 500m away, and he could have swum across in 10 minutes flat knowing him, but the boats' 'highway' was in between and prevented it which frustrated him big time.
To cheer him up I suggested we go para-sailing. I had tried it once before in Israel, and got seriously sea-sick as the boat had stalled and I was left dangling the air, going no where, just swung back and forth. I was white as a sheet when I came down. This time was MUCH more fun and well worth another shot. Roberto & I went in a tandem and the guy in charge asked us how high and low we wanted to go - i.e. did we want to end up in water once in a while. We both excitedly agreed. We were seated pretty comfortably and it was like being an armchair, but 'in the air'... The view from the top was fab (a bird's eyeview over the beautiful islands) and coming down into the sea was just great fun.... we were advised vs putting our feet down as it'd have been too big an impact, we were advised to only touch down on the water with our bums, but it was easier said than done. I couldn't always lean backwards enough to lift my feet high up. We both thoroughly enjoyed it... (a first for him). The guy in charge took about 40 shots of us up there, but most are a bit too far to even see our faces properly, even with my 300mm zoom lens (maybe we can see them better with the optical zoom on the PC?).
I wanted to try jet-skiing next but he couldn't wait to snorkel some more so he promised we'd do it tomorrow. I wanted to do it in Australia but it was like GBP 200 worth for an hour or so and here it's more like GBP 22 equivalent (150RM) for 30 minutes... and that's 150RM for TWO. Roberto had wanted to try it in Europe but had also had problem getting a decent quote so couldn't justify the expense before.... I also wanted to go on the banana boat but you needed to be a minimum of 3 and I couldn't find anyone else interested.
The island was pretty neatly organised for water sports... they even offered mini submarine experience (they had a photo of someone riding an under-water scooter with a big bubble helmet over their head... how 007 is that ??? wow !)... they also gave you the chance to go sea-walking... same thing, they take you on a boat, down a ladder, and have you walk on the sea bed in a suit with a big 'bubble' helmet (don't know the English word) and feed the fish. They had some great pictures of whole families posing with the full equipment on, deep down. COOL.
The BBQ we had was pretty plain for me but they offered lots of sea food and grilled fish for anyone interested in such things... most tourists left at 2:30pm but Roberto managed to negotiate an extra hour. Even leaving at 3:30pm seemed remarkably early when it was such a gorgeous spot and such a lovely sunny day. It made no sense to us at all. They had a few shops but not much to write home about... but when 90% of the tourists had gone the place looked even better - more peaceful. I took some great shots of the beach... I even made a point to have one showing clearly KK in the far background as it still seemed pretty amazing to me that such a beauty spot could be SO near the capital city. Mind-boggling really.
We reluctantly had to go back but then I had this great idea that we should aim for the sunset cruise. It seemed like the best way to spend our last evening. I had no idea was type of boat was used, I just vaguely remembered reading about it... Roberto was agreeable to it, as I expected, since he pretty much likes anyting connected with water.
As it happens, the cruise started 45mns after we'd got back so it was a good thing we were forced to return earlier than we wanted. Part II of our day was equally satisfying ! :) We were on a catamaran and the very front of the boat was made of 4 hammocks with a big cushion on each of them where you could totally sprawl as you watched the sea right under you. It was SO comfy... I kept wishing we could have spent the night there, watching the stars and the moon, falling asleep to the sound of the waves lapping gently right under our bodies... It was really relaxing and we both enjoyed it immensely. It really felt like you were rich & famous for just 2 hours. There were only 3 other guests with us, so it was perfect. We 'sailed into the sunset', literaly, as they took us as far as they could till the sun went down, and then we turned round. The speed wasn't much so that the boat remained fairly quiet. I did spare lots of thoughts for all my friends who are having such a tough ordeal right now, be with their own health, their family's health, or other matters... I felt gutted that I couldn't zip over everybody I knew who so DESERVED this kind of moment TOO. I almost felt guilty to enjoy it when *I* don't struggle half as hard as some people I know. Sigh. They call Borneo 'The Land Below The Wind' and it's so true. There just isn't any wind at all on this island, which is extra blissful as it remains warm all year round.
There was a magazine photographer and publisher on the boat with us and the professional photographer took heaps of shots of Roberto & I relaxing on the hammock (esp. of me, as I wrote my notes for my travel blog). They explained that they came on this boat trip to write up a report about what's on offer for one of their magazines and would be using the photos. She asked for our names and if Roberto was my husband... :) She promised to send me some of the best shots by email and hopefully a copy of the magazine when it's published... Wouldn't that be neat or what? Famous indeed, for one day, in one travel magazine.... Maybe we should have mentioned that we were both single, see what kind of men we attract, if any ! :)
Anyway, we enjoyed today so much that we're going back for more tomorrow... we've decided to explore another 2 islands (Manukan and Mamutik). The aerial pictures that were advertised at the SeaQuest desk were just too tempting... and there's no way Roberto was going to spend a full half day in the hotel - too limiting for him, no matter how stunning the hotel actually is.
We could totally tailor make the trip so we will leave at 9:30am to be back for 3:15pm. Then we can use the gym here to have a shower and have one last drink before our transfer. We regretfully had to bring it forward by 45mns as the hotel hosts a charity run tomorrow (of all days!) and they are expecting 10,000 participants. They had therefore left us a note in our room to 'urge us to allow more time to get to the airport as traffic around the hotel will be very congested as of 5pm'. Our pick up was at 5:15pm ! Roberto wasn't keen to change it at all as KK's airport is a bore (but will triple in size over the next 2 years as Borneo is growing as a holiday destination) but I wasn't prepared to risk it as my insurance wouldn't cover a missed flight.
I'll try to email again tomorrow, if I can... one little thing I forgot to mention yesterday re-the white water rafting is that when the guys came to pick us up at our hotel they were wearing T-shirts that said 'Paddle or Die' (!) ... at the time Roberto & I were not even sure that going white water rafting was a good idea, so we exchanged some pretty worried looks. The company organising it was called 'River Bug' which I thought was a great pun !
Also, if anyone is planning to visit Mt Kinabalu, the Hill Lodge is where we stayed and it was really spacious and cosy. No TV, but, who cares ???
Time to sign off and PACK... shock. I so dread going back. Roberto has found the trip very thought-provoking in many ways, it has helped him reflect on his life in London and all. I always find that, the closer you get to nature, the more you can rediscover yourself and redefine yourself too. We were enjoying our last super lavish buffet and it occured to me that tomorrow night, we'll be having a microwaved meal on the plane... better for the waist line but not for the tastebuds, sigh. And my fridge will be totally empty when I get home... as always. Double sigh.
Must haste, I'm keeping you all with me in spirit... honest ! xxxx
Well, I feel I've spent the last 2 weeks using superlatives to describe Borneo, but this place has truly exceeded our expectations every step of the way. Every single day has been just awesome and today was no exception.
We had a leisurely breakfast where I ate far more than I needed simply because the choice of pastries was too tempting to resist... but made up for it by having only papaya for lunch (not that I was strong willed but the BBQ lunch on the beach had next to nothing for vegetarians - thank God!).
Anyway, at 10am we left from our hotel's own jetty (I tell you, this hotel has got it ALL) and within 8 minutes in a speedboat we had reached Sapi Island (one of the 5 islands that make up the Tunku Abdul Rahman (Marine) Park. In case you wonder what it means, as I did, the park is named after their first prime minister who brought independence from the British. Now, the brochures say that "the locals go there to enjoy snorkelling in crystal clear waters" but I'll admit I was dubious about that... I mean, Kota Kinabalu is the capital city and well, if I compare this to... say, London, there is NO way I would have "crystal clear waters" just 8 minutes away from the Thames... let alone with tropical fish! (assuming any at all survive the pollution?).
But the brochures were NOT kidding... the water colour was crystal clear and a lovely deep green. The islands had tiny white sandy beaches and were packed with trees - so dense, like a mini rainforest. Sapi was a bit crowded and from the boat I could spot quite a few children splashing around the water and so I immediately pictured a coral reef that was full of dead corals - skeletons, bones, bleak reminders of a more glorious past... but again, I couldn't have been more wrong. The coral reef off Sapi was PRISTINE. It was wide enough to entertain any avid snorkeller for at least 30mns without covering the same grounds and offered an incredible variety of hard and soft corals... it was just as spectacular as some of the coral gardens we'd enjoyed in Sipadan. I was gob-smacked. I just never expected this kind of coral quality in a National Park that was founded in 1974. Probably one of the finest in the world. The beauty of this place has been promoted for 30+ years and yet it still looked immaculate. Compare this to the poor sights of Eilat (Israel) or Mombasa (Kenya) where there is pretty much nothing decent left unless you hop on a boat for 40mns off the coast and what a startling contrast. And the water temperature was just like bath water... so beautifully warm, you could snorkel for ages then. Perfect !
They have kind of 'marked up' the snorkelling and diving areas and divided them with ropes and green and black floaters. If you stay within the green floaters area, you are in the snorkelling area, if you go between green & black, you are in the slightly deeper waters and supposedly in the diving section. You are not allowed to swim past the black floaters as this is the 'highway' for speedboats and if they don't spot you on time, you could end up like minced meat under their propellers. Roberto, being not one to be told what to do actually gambled it and tried to swim beyond the 'line' as the reef was better & better the further into the sea you went, but he soon got whistled at by a patrolling boat. I told him that it was to save him from himself... but he felt he was too restricted and like in a prison. The next island (Gaya) was just 500m away, and he could have swum across in 10 minutes flat knowing him, but the boats' 'highway' was in between and prevented it which frustrated him big time.
To cheer him up I suggested we go para-sailing. I had tried it once before in Israel, and got seriously sea-sick as the boat had stalled and I was left dangling the air, going no where, just swung back and forth. I was white as a sheet when I came down. This time was MUCH more fun and well worth another shot. Roberto & I went in a tandem and the guy in charge asked us how high and low we wanted to go - i.e. did we want to end up in water once in a while. We both excitedly agreed. We were seated pretty comfortably and it was like being an armchair, but 'in the air'... The view from the top was fab (a bird's eyeview over the beautiful islands) and coming down into the sea was just great fun.... we were advised vs putting our feet down as it'd have been too big an impact, we were advised to only touch down on the water with our bums, but it was easier said than done. I couldn't always lean backwards enough to lift my feet high up. We both thoroughly enjoyed it... (a first for him). The guy in charge took about 40 shots of us up there, but most are a bit too far to even see our faces properly, even with my 300mm zoom lens (maybe we can see them better with the optical zoom on the PC?).
I wanted to try jet-skiing next but he couldn't wait to snorkel some more so he promised we'd do it tomorrow. I wanted to do it in Australia but it was like GBP 200 worth for an hour or so and here it's more like GBP 22 equivalent (150RM) for 30 minutes... and that's 150RM for TWO. Roberto had wanted to try it in Europe but had also had problem getting a decent quote so couldn't justify the expense before.... I also wanted to go on the banana boat but you needed to be a minimum of 3 and I couldn't find anyone else interested.
The island was pretty neatly organised for water sports... they even offered mini submarine experience (they had a photo of someone riding an under-water scooter with a big bubble helmet over their head... how 007 is that ??? wow !)... they also gave you the chance to go sea-walking... same thing, they take you on a boat, down a ladder, and have you walk on the sea bed in a suit with a big 'bubble' helmet (don't know the English word) and feed the fish. They had some great pictures of whole families posing with the full equipment on, deep down. COOL.
The BBQ we had was pretty plain for me but they offered lots of sea food and grilled fish for anyone interested in such things... most tourists left at 2:30pm but Roberto managed to negotiate an extra hour. Even leaving at 3:30pm seemed remarkably early when it was such a gorgeous spot and such a lovely sunny day. It made no sense to us at all. They had a few shops but not much to write home about... but when 90% of the tourists had gone the place looked even better - more peaceful. I took some great shots of the beach... I even made a point to have one showing clearly KK in the far background as it still seemed pretty amazing to me that such a beauty spot could be SO near the capital city. Mind-boggling really.
We reluctantly had to go back but then I had this great idea that we should aim for the sunset cruise. It seemed like the best way to spend our last evening. I had no idea was type of boat was used, I just vaguely remembered reading about it... Roberto was agreeable to it, as I expected, since he pretty much likes anyting connected with water.
As it happens, the cruise started 45mns after we'd got back so it was a good thing we were forced to return earlier than we wanted. Part II of our day was equally satisfying ! :) We were on a catamaran and the very front of the boat was made of 4 hammocks with a big cushion on each of them where you could totally sprawl as you watched the sea right under you. It was SO comfy... I kept wishing we could have spent the night there, watching the stars and the moon, falling asleep to the sound of the waves lapping gently right under our bodies... It was really relaxing and we both enjoyed it immensely. It really felt like you were rich & famous for just 2 hours. There were only 3 other guests with us, so it was perfect. We 'sailed into the sunset', literaly, as they took us as far as they could till the sun went down, and then we turned round. The speed wasn't much so that the boat remained fairly quiet. I did spare lots of thoughts for all my friends who are having such a tough ordeal right now, be with their own health, their family's health, or other matters... I felt gutted that I couldn't zip over everybody I knew who so DESERVED this kind of moment TOO. I almost felt guilty to enjoy it when *I* don't struggle half as hard as some people I know. Sigh. They call Borneo 'The Land Below The Wind' and it's so true. There just isn't any wind at all on this island, which is extra blissful as it remains warm all year round.
There was a magazine photographer and publisher on the boat with us and the professional photographer took heaps of shots of Roberto & I relaxing on the hammock (esp. of me, as I wrote my notes for my travel blog). They explained that they came on this boat trip to write up a report about what's on offer for one of their magazines and would be using the photos. She asked for our names and if Roberto was my husband... :) She promised to send me some of the best shots by email and hopefully a copy of the magazine when it's published... Wouldn't that be neat or what? Famous indeed, for one day, in one travel magazine.... Maybe we should have mentioned that we were both single, see what kind of men we attract, if any ! :)
Anyway, we enjoyed today so much that we're going back for more tomorrow... we've decided to explore another 2 islands (Manukan and Mamutik). The aerial pictures that were advertised at the SeaQuest desk were just too tempting... and there's no way Roberto was going to spend a full half day in the hotel - too limiting for him, no matter how stunning the hotel actually is.
We could totally tailor make the trip so we will leave at 9:30am to be back for 3:15pm. Then we can use the gym here to have a shower and have one last drink before our transfer. We regretfully had to bring it forward by 45mns as the hotel hosts a charity run tomorrow (of all days!) and they are expecting 10,000 participants. They had therefore left us a note in our room to 'urge us to allow more time to get to the airport as traffic around the hotel will be very congested as of 5pm'. Our pick up was at 5:15pm ! Roberto wasn't keen to change it at all as KK's airport is a bore (but will triple in size over the next 2 years as Borneo is growing as a holiday destination) but I wasn't prepared to risk it as my insurance wouldn't cover a missed flight.
I'll try to email again tomorrow, if I can... one little thing I forgot to mention yesterday re-the white water rafting is that when the guys came to pick us up at our hotel they were wearing T-shirts that said 'Paddle or Die' (!) ... at the time Roberto & I were not even sure that going white water rafting was a good idea, so we exchanged some pretty worried looks. The company organising it was called 'River Bug' which I thought was a great pun !
Also, if anyone is planning to visit Mt Kinabalu, the Hill Lodge is where we stayed and it was really spacious and cosy. No TV, but, who cares ???
Time to sign off and PACK... shock. I so dread going back. Roberto has found the trip very thought-provoking in many ways, it has helped him reflect on his life in London and all. I always find that, the closer you get to nature, the more you can rediscover yourself and redefine yourself too. We were enjoying our last super lavish buffet and it occured to me that tomorrow night, we'll be having a microwaved meal on the plane... better for the waist line but not for the tastebuds, sigh. And my fridge will be totally empty when I get home... as always. Double sigh.
Must haste, I'm keeping you all with me in spirit... honest ! xxxx
posted by Sylvie at 1:06 PM
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