A special good bye gift - 7 Sept 2008
Sunday was our last day at Arathusa... how our hearts sank. We had got quite fond of our fellow travellers too and it was getting quite sad to see people go when we had got on quite well with them. It also reminded us that our turn would come soon.
We managed to have 2 strokes of luck on our last day though. Our 11:30am flight was put off till 1:3opm, and then further delayed until 2:30pm. That was such a blessing as otherwise it'd have meant a 9 hour wait between our 1st & 2nd planes. But leaving at 2:30pm, we would be back in Jo'burg for 4:20pm and then 'only' had 5 hours to kill till our overnight flight.
Anyway, I disgress. We set off our on last game drive with a heavy heart but determined to enjoy it fully and focus 'on the moment'. The first two hours were actually pretty boring... we didn't see much but for a big warthog and impalas fighting. We also wasted 45 mins looking for a female leopard with her kill. Roy explored the area on foot and Jason circled the patch with his car. Nothing. Then he got a call on his radio and he told us 'right, hang on tight, we've got something'. We all assumed that one of the other two cars circling around the leopard patch had found her location but the radio call had actually been for a male cheetah that was walking around near the edge of the reserve.
Nathalie & I could not believe our eyes when we first set our eyes on it. Jason turned to us and said 'this is exceptionally lucky, we only see one sighting of cheetahs a month on average' (I knew this to be true already as I'd looked at Aruthusa's stats for the year). They had last seen cheetahs 4 days before we arrived, so statistically they were not meant to be seen for another 3 weeks. Cheetahs are the one animals that he would not promise to find us. Leopard sightings are 10 times more frequent in Sabi Sand. So this was just amazing. The icing on the cake. Our special 'good bye' gift from the African bush. As if this moment was meant to bring closure to our trip by giving Nathalie no regret at all - she would have seen the top 3 big cats around. We followed this beautiful male for a good 15 minutes until it just laid down at the top of a mount (as they do). It then sat up and looked around. We were also incredibly fortunate because it happened to stop JUST at the border of the park with another reserve. And the rules are very very strict, you never cross onto another patch. So we just enjoyed watching it with binoculars and making videos and taking photos. The light was perfect too - another blessing. In photography, light is everything.
Cheetahs are the most gentle of the big cats and yet they have it the hardest. Jason told us that of all the animals it's the one he feels the most sorry for as they have so many predators (lions & leopards will try and kill their cubs due to competition). There are so few cheetahs left that they will most likely be the first big cat to become extinct - their gene pool is too small... inter-breeding will eventually lead to weaker & weaker cubs who will be less & less able to fend for themselves. Incidentally, whilst at the airport I looked up a book on wildlife from SA and I had never realised that there are TWO types of cheetahs and the King Cheetah has got a very similar built but a very different coat. If you google 'king cheetah photo' you will be amazed. I have never seen one ever, but do wonder where I could now as they are so unusual.
Once we'd enjoyed our cheetah sighting for a good 15 mins we had to reluctantly move on so that another vehicle could move closer (remember that here there are never more than 3 vehicles around any animal so when more are coming over, the first ones on the spot need to clear the area).
No sooner had we been gone though that we passed a vehicle for the Wild Earth documentaries (a kind of Google Earth where you can watch animals in the wild) and the driver there told Jason that they'd just filmed a female leopard snoozing up a tree. He gave us the precise instructions on how to find her and within 5 minutes we were at the bottom of the tree enjoying the priceless sight of a leopard happily sleeping up a tree. They do look SO relaxed and comfortable. I took some really sweet shots. She was the mother of Princess, our favourite female leopard. All in all, we had managed to see about 14 sightings of leopards in 10 game drives made up of 5 different leopards. That was pretty good going! And on our 4th day we didn't see any leopards at all - just to prove that there is never any guarantee in the wild. We did ask Jason 'did we have average luck, good luck, how did our 5 days compare to the average 5 days?' and he was adamant we'd been "exceptionally lucky". He could remember every single game drive and know who among his guests had seen what - which is quite a feat considering guests come and go every day. But he so adored animals that he never took any sighting for granted either. We couldn't have hoped for a more sensitive and dedicated ranger really.
We went back to Arathusa for breakfast, sad to be soon packing, but exhilarated by our good fortune. It had become our 'home away from home'. They even had 2 lovely jack russel dogs who had got to know us too (they get locked up at night to protect them from hyenas). We were going to miss the staff, the gourmet food, the superb bathrooms with 2 showers and 1 bath tub, the comfy beds, the many lillac rollers flying around the grounds, the hornbills, and just the thrill of watching so much game come over for a drink as we were having lunch. SO neat. And to eat outdoors is always lovely. And dinners under the stars were quite special too.
As I was filling the feedback form I started to cry as the extent of my loss overwhelmed me... but then Africa always has this effect on me. It is the one place in the world that I cannot bear to leave, above any other. And the people of South Africa had made us all feel SO welcome. But then I have often found that most African people are exceedingly friendly wherever you go.
They recommended 10% tip for the staff, 10% for the rangers and 10% for the tracker, and when you do the maths, it seems pretty astronomical (30% tip based on the total of what your week at Arathusa has already cost you) but when we looked back on all the memories, knowing it's been probably one of the most special weeks of our entire lives, we were more than happy to help them out financially as it was so well deserved.
The journey back home felt like it'd never end... Jason & Roy kindly drove us to the air strip by the lodge and waited with us till the plane touched down (it meant having to rush their lunch afterwards as they'd only have 15mns to spare instead of 1H till the next game drive started). We then flew to Sabi Sabi and changed for another FedAir plane, got to Jo'burg for 4:20pm. Enjoyed the FedAir lodge for just 40mns to relax and get over the journey (it had been quite windy on the last day so I felt a bit queasy). And then we were driven to the international section and tried to keep busy for 5 hours. I did buy about 25 post cards but God knows when I will have time to write them! Not for another week I'd say.
I'd forgotten how BAD the Spanish Iberia airline is... I should read my old posts more often ! As a note to myself, for future ref. I need to remember that they have NO individual screen, NO choice of movies, NO movies in English (Spanish only- a real bummer for Nathalie), NO decent veggie meal (they give out vegan which is revolting), the temperature is boiling hot (maybe because the Spaniards are used to the heat on the ground?) and they have NO goodie bag and NO hand lotion in the toilets. Hum. Just like a charter airline. I only went with them because they were much cheaper but they are SO inferior to the other national airlines out there. And their captain's English was so poor (heavy Spanish accent) we just could not understand what he was saying. Plus, even though we were in transit, you still have to allow 45 mins connection time in Madrid as they still insist you go through passport control and security check. The airport is like a maze, with endless corridors. Great ceiling design but far tooooo spacious. Compact would have been better.
Oh well, at least we landed 20 mins early and I got my luggage back. It was weird being home but it was fairly sunny and warm. Not too much of a shock weather wise. Thankfully it's only one hour time difference with South Africa (+1H for them) so I shouldn't suffer too much tomorrow when I'm back at work - already.
In conclusion: nature in Africa just doesn't disappoint. It's a must for any true animal lover. It's fascinating, exciting, interesting and as magical as it ever was. Sabi Sand is particularly special as the land hasn't changed for centuries. In Kruger and in some other reserves some animals have been brought over to boost numbers for tourists. But Sabi Sand is 'the real deal'. If you can ever make it over there, I have no doubt it will change you too. Start saving up ! :)
The next travel update will be from Palau (over Christmas) and Kauii over New Year. February 2009 should see me in New Zealand for 3 weeks and I aim to be in China over Easter. GOD WILLING -- and I do thank Him every day for everything that I have had the chance of discovering already. I love to be 'blown away' and the Creation and all its facts and revelations are just a confirmation to me that all these intricate designs cannot be a fluke. It's just too clever ! :) I can't wait to discover yet more... and I'll share it all in due course. Fret not ! ;)
Sunday was our last day at Arathusa... how our hearts sank. We had got quite fond of our fellow travellers too and it was getting quite sad to see people go when we had got on quite well with them. It also reminded us that our turn would come soon.
We managed to have 2 strokes of luck on our last day though. Our 11:30am flight was put off till 1:3opm, and then further delayed until 2:30pm. That was such a blessing as otherwise it'd have meant a 9 hour wait between our 1st & 2nd planes. But leaving at 2:30pm, we would be back in Jo'burg for 4:20pm and then 'only' had 5 hours to kill till our overnight flight.
Anyway, I disgress. We set off our on last game drive with a heavy heart but determined to enjoy it fully and focus 'on the moment'. The first two hours were actually pretty boring... we didn't see much but for a big warthog and impalas fighting. We also wasted 45 mins looking for a female leopard with her kill. Roy explored the area on foot and Jason circled the patch with his car. Nothing. Then he got a call on his radio and he told us 'right, hang on tight, we've got something'. We all assumed that one of the other two cars circling around the leopard patch had found her location but the radio call had actually been for a male cheetah that was walking around near the edge of the reserve.
Nathalie & I could not believe our eyes when we first set our eyes on it. Jason turned to us and said 'this is exceptionally lucky, we only see one sighting of cheetahs a month on average' (I knew this to be true already as I'd looked at Aruthusa's stats for the year). They had last seen cheetahs 4 days before we arrived, so statistically they were not meant to be seen for another 3 weeks. Cheetahs are the one animals that he would not promise to find us. Leopard sightings are 10 times more frequent in Sabi Sand. So this was just amazing. The icing on the cake. Our special 'good bye' gift from the African bush. As if this moment was meant to bring closure to our trip by giving Nathalie no regret at all - she would have seen the top 3 big cats around. We followed this beautiful male for a good 15 minutes until it just laid down at the top of a mount (as they do). It then sat up and looked around. We were also incredibly fortunate because it happened to stop JUST at the border of the park with another reserve. And the rules are very very strict, you never cross onto another patch. So we just enjoyed watching it with binoculars and making videos and taking photos. The light was perfect too - another blessing. In photography, light is everything.
Cheetahs are the most gentle of the big cats and yet they have it the hardest. Jason told us that of all the animals it's the one he feels the most sorry for as they have so many predators (lions & leopards will try and kill their cubs due to competition). There are so few cheetahs left that they will most likely be the first big cat to become extinct - their gene pool is too small... inter-breeding will eventually lead to weaker & weaker cubs who will be less & less able to fend for themselves. Incidentally, whilst at the airport I looked up a book on wildlife from SA and I had never realised that there are TWO types of cheetahs and the King Cheetah has got a very similar built but a very different coat. If you google 'king cheetah photo' you will be amazed. I have never seen one ever, but do wonder where I could now as they are so unusual.
Once we'd enjoyed our cheetah sighting for a good 15 mins we had to reluctantly move on so that another vehicle could move closer (remember that here there are never more than 3 vehicles around any animal so when more are coming over, the first ones on the spot need to clear the area).
No sooner had we been gone though that we passed a vehicle for the Wild Earth documentaries (a kind of Google Earth where you can watch animals in the wild) and the driver there told Jason that they'd just filmed a female leopard snoozing up a tree. He gave us the precise instructions on how to find her and within 5 minutes we were at the bottom of the tree enjoying the priceless sight of a leopard happily sleeping up a tree. They do look SO relaxed and comfortable. I took some really sweet shots. She was the mother of Princess, our favourite female leopard. All in all, we had managed to see about 14 sightings of leopards in 10 game drives made up of 5 different leopards. That was pretty good going! And on our 4th day we didn't see any leopards at all - just to prove that there is never any guarantee in the wild. We did ask Jason 'did we have average luck, good luck, how did our 5 days compare to the average 5 days?' and he was adamant we'd been "exceptionally lucky". He could remember every single game drive and know who among his guests had seen what - which is quite a feat considering guests come and go every day. But he so adored animals that he never took any sighting for granted either. We couldn't have hoped for a more sensitive and dedicated ranger really.
We went back to Arathusa for breakfast, sad to be soon packing, but exhilarated by our good fortune. It had become our 'home away from home'. They even had 2 lovely jack russel dogs who had got to know us too (they get locked up at night to protect them from hyenas). We were going to miss the staff, the gourmet food, the superb bathrooms with 2 showers and 1 bath tub, the comfy beds, the many lillac rollers flying around the grounds, the hornbills, and just the thrill of watching so much game come over for a drink as we were having lunch. SO neat. And to eat outdoors is always lovely. And dinners under the stars were quite special too.
As I was filling the feedback form I started to cry as the extent of my loss overwhelmed me... but then Africa always has this effect on me. It is the one place in the world that I cannot bear to leave, above any other. And the people of South Africa had made us all feel SO welcome. But then I have often found that most African people are exceedingly friendly wherever you go.
They recommended 10% tip for the staff, 10% for the rangers and 10% for the tracker, and when you do the maths, it seems pretty astronomical (30% tip based on the total of what your week at Arathusa has already cost you) but when we looked back on all the memories, knowing it's been probably one of the most special weeks of our entire lives, we were more than happy to help them out financially as it was so well deserved.
The journey back home felt like it'd never end... Jason & Roy kindly drove us to the air strip by the lodge and waited with us till the plane touched down (it meant having to rush their lunch afterwards as they'd only have 15mns to spare instead of 1H till the next game drive started). We then flew to Sabi Sabi and changed for another FedAir plane, got to Jo'burg for 4:20pm. Enjoyed the FedAir lodge for just 40mns to relax and get over the journey (it had been quite windy on the last day so I felt a bit queasy). And then we were driven to the international section and tried to keep busy for 5 hours. I did buy about 25 post cards but God knows when I will have time to write them! Not for another week I'd say.
I'd forgotten how BAD the Spanish Iberia airline is... I should read my old posts more often ! As a note to myself, for future ref. I need to remember that they have NO individual screen, NO choice of movies, NO movies in English (Spanish only- a real bummer for Nathalie), NO decent veggie meal (they give out vegan which is revolting), the temperature is boiling hot (maybe because the Spaniards are used to the heat on the ground?) and they have NO goodie bag and NO hand lotion in the toilets. Hum. Just like a charter airline. I only went with them because they were much cheaper but they are SO inferior to the other national airlines out there. And their captain's English was so poor (heavy Spanish accent) we just could not understand what he was saying. Plus, even though we were in transit, you still have to allow 45 mins connection time in Madrid as they still insist you go through passport control and security check. The airport is like a maze, with endless corridors. Great ceiling design but far tooooo spacious. Compact would have been better.
Oh well, at least we landed 20 mins early and I got my luggage back. It was weird being home but it was fairly sunny and warm. Not too much of a shock weather wise. Thankfully it's only one hour time difference with South Africa (+1H for them) so I shouldn't suffer too much tomorrow when I'm back at work - already.
In conclusion: nature in Africa just doesn't disappoint. It's a must for any true animal lover. It's fascinating, exciting, interesting and as magical as it ever was. Sabi Sand is particularly special as the land hasn't changed for centuries. In Kruger and in some other reserves some animals have been brought over to boost numbers for tourists. But Sabi Sand is 'the real deal'. If you can ever make it over there, I have no doubt it will change you too. Start saving up ! :)
The next travel update will be from Palau (over Christmas) and Kauii over New Year. February 2009 should see me in New Zealand for 3 weeks and I aim to be in China over Easter. GOD WILLING -- and I do thank Him every day for everything that I have had the chance of discovering already. I love to be 'blown away' and the Creation and all its facts and revelations are just a confirmation to me that all these intricate designs cannot be a fluke. It's just too clever ! :) I can't wait to discover yet more... and I'll share it all in due course. Fret not ! ;)
posted by Sylvie at 7:34 PM
<< Home